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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.